![]() ![]() ![]() It was a warm day and all the pen markings should be left untouched for at least 10 seconds to avoid transfer and smears, but some inks are worse than others. Smear test for HABS-HAER pens by Stephen Schafer, on FlickrĮach pen was used to mark the shiny (non emulsion side) of the negative and then my finger was wiped lightly across the ink at 5, 10 and 30 seconds. Note: Buy two, because I have had identical pens work well, and not so well, depending on their ink flow. but pen-tips over 0.5mm were too thick for my needs, I prefer 0.4mm. Bottom row is the ECCO pen "double hit" the first 4 words were overwritten after 30 seconds to increase the ink density.Īs you can see, the trick is to get a pen tip that is fine enough to write in the tiny film-notch margin area but is not too thick. You can get a good sense of the density differences and why a Sharpie Ultra Fine Point Black pen isn't acceptable. Here's the samples on an almost clear part of an extra HAER tunnel negative. Sample HABS-HAER 4x5 film marking test by Stephen Schafer, on Flickr or you can be really careful and mark first and re-wash later. This can be handy if the negatives are incorrectly marked, the negs can be rewetted/rewashed, wiped clean, and remarked when dry. I have rewashed negatives that were marked with the ECCO and PITT pens and they will wipe off while they are wet but are permanent after the film dries again if you are careful not to smear the edge while washing. The ZIG and Micron pens just don't have the density of black like the German pens, and they smear more for longer. The Staedtler Lumocolor F is not as dense but passable and bit fat for 4x5 negatives. Staedtler Pigment Liner 0.4mm is also very good. I prefer the Faber-Castell ECCO 0.4mm tip and the Faber-Castell Pitt artist pen 'S' size. Pens for HABS-HAER 4x5 film marking test by Stephen Schafer, on FlickrĪll of these pens (except the Sharpie) are considered archival "pigment" (and have similar ink to to the refillable Rapidograph engineering pens).These permanent pens qualify under the HABS guidelines because they are made with pigment-based not dye-based inks. I have tried a lot of pens, and I have never needed to "erase a section of the negative to make the ink stick." Here are the pens that work the best for me, I'm interested in your experience too. ![]() In my hands, they clog and blotch and I end up with black fingers and smeared negatives because it's not an especially quick-drying approach. That said, I hate using Rapidographs! I know some of you like to use them. This is from the latest (January 2020) HDP guidelines: ![]()
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